It's Rumi In Here

 In generosity and helping others
                           be like the river.
In compassion and grace
                            be like the sun.
In concealing others' faults
                            be like the night.
In anger and fury
                            be like the dead.
In modesty and humility
                            be like the soil.
In tolerance
                            be like the ocean.
Either appear as you are or
                            be as you appear.  

On Wednesday I walked among the ruins of the oldest settlement in Europe, Çatalhöyük (outside Konya, Turkey). 

.... and in the first church of the Roman Empire, Aya Elenia, (Sille, Turkey).  

 

Thursday we met Esin Çelebi, the 22-times-great granddaughter of Mevlânâ, known to Westerners as Rumi.   As is customary in Turkey, we were served çay while listening to her speak.  She sat along side us in a circle at the Ususlararasi Mevlânâ Vakfi (InternationalMevlânâ Fondation).   A lovely peace filled the room.  As Esin Hanim spoke in her soft, eloquent, refreshing Turkish, I was moved by her golden, calming aura.  Her words were precisely chosen as she spoke of the foundation's goal of spreading the teachings of her ancestor, Mevlânâ.  

 

Love is the cure,
for your pain will keep giving birth to more pain
until your eyes constantly exhale love
as effortlessly as your body yields its scent.                      -Mevlânâ

We then visited the museum and gravesite of Mevlânâ.   Mevlânâ (Rumi) is a bit misunderstood in Western society.  Mevlânâ Celaleddin Rumi (1207-1273) was a great Turkish and Islamic mystic.  He is part of the Sufi branch of Islam.  In order to understand Mevlânâ, one must have knowledge of Islam.  Here’s where Westerns go wrong, as I’m pretty sure every Westerner has zero familiarity with Islam.  (I almost went on a rant about this but refrained.  Applause!  My goal on this trip and in life is to constantly grow and learn.  I will be the change I want to see in the world.)  Islam is a religion based on love and peace.  An essential part of Islam is pluralism.  Pluralism is a positive attitude to diversity.  It recognizes different cultures, religious communities, and their peaceful-coexistence in a given environment.  Diversity and pluralism in Islam are as such:  in the Divine Unity there is also the unity of creation. God’s creation is one and God’s guidance is one.  The ultimate goal of creation is to worship God and manifest His glory.  Although Prophets (not just Muhammad but prophets of other religions as well) are many, their essential message is one in the same.  Islam underlines a historical continuity of divine revelation, beginning with Adam and ending with Muhammad. 

"Your task is not to seek for love, but merely to seek and find all the barriers within yourself that you have built against it."           -Mevlânâ 

Among his works, which cover love and tolerance, the Mesnevi is well known.   “Sema” has become one of the symbols of the Mevlevi path, or the path of Mevlânâ. Accompanied by music and systemized by certain rules, the whirling movements of “Sema” represent the human’s approaching to reality, leaving the ego though love and wisdom, his annihilation in God, and his returning again to service as a mature human being.  You may have heard of them as the Whirling Dervishes (Dervish).  I bought two books about "Rumi" and I can't wait to read them.  I want to know all there is about this man and his ways. 

Speaking of love and tolerance, Turkey’s history is chalk-full of it.  During the Ottoman Empire, which dissolved not even a century ago after WWI, the Millet System was in place.  (The Republic of Turkey was founded in 1923 after the Turkish Independence War).  The Millet system is the self-management of different religious communities according to their own laws, customs and traditions while living under Ottoman rule.  Communities of Christians, Jews, and Muslims in the Ottoman Empire experienced a high degree of equality among all the Ottoman subjects.  Each group was given full jurisdiction and autonomy for the operation and maintenance of their own social, religious and educational institutions.  All people acquired and shared the same status as full members of the State.  Jewish, Greek, and Armenian merchants dressed and acted like Muslims, belonged to the same class, and enjoyed the same rights and privileges.  Many of the skillful non-Muslim subjects took active part in the administrative services.  So there you have it: Anatolia has long been a place of thoughtful acceptance of all people. 
 
 “O son, never forget! Make the people live, so that the State lives on.” 
                       -Shaykh Edibali, the Teacher of Osman I, the Founder of the Ottoman State

With the start of the Republic of Turkey, the religious diversity of Anatolia decreased.  In fact, in 1923 a contract was signed between Greece and Turkey inciting the largest population exchange in history.  1.2 million orthodox Christians left Turkey for Greece and 500,000 Muslims migrated to Turkey.  Turkey is about 99% Muslim today.  The country’s ethnic diversity is still alive and present.  Speaking of Muslims, for the first time in my life I was in a mosque.  It was beautiful.  The men and women of our group entered together as it wasn't prayer time.  During the time of prayer, it's customary for women to enter and pray separately. 
 
As if all of this wasn’t enough excitement, I can also now say I’ve been to a Turkish bath.  Enough said. 

Friday we went on a tour of the Parliament building.   After the tour we dinned at the Parliament building.  I swore I wouldn't take pics of food like everyone else but I caved once the food was being served to me at Parliament (where normal people aren't allowed).  The first dish was artichoke, the second spinach with Turkish yogurt.  Both were exquisite. 

Our jaunts for the day (the list just keeps going) concluded with the Turkish Constitutional Court.  We were informed upon our arrival they’d hosted a delegation from Montenegro that morning… and then us in the afternoon.  Hilarious.  We don’t even compare to a delegation from another country yet we were treated like royalty!  We walked into a plush conference room where sweets, notepads, and water were awaiting us at our seats.  Mehmet Oguz Kaya, the Secretary General, shook hands with all of us and then sat at the head of the table.  He explained the philosophy of the court, joked with us, and çay was served.  After some more discussion about the workings of the Court, the servers entered again with special Turkish ice cream that was the best thing I’ve ever tasted.   It’s made from goat’s milk.  We concluded the tour with pictures sitting in the justices’ chairs and GIFTS! 

Just another day in Turkey....   

Current Events

Our tour guide for our overnight trip to Konya, Suat, was part of the protests in Ankara and shared his story with us.  First, I have to apologize for incorrectly telling everyone nothing is happening.  Something is happening.  Second, I have to say this is a big deal.  Both Suat, who was in the thick of things, and our Turkish coordinator Dr. Gökhan Çapoglu, who happens to be a former Parliament member AND economic policy professor, agree these protests could lead to change in the Turkish government.  Specifically, the removal of Prime Minister Erdogan (Erdogan).  

Suat's very memorable line was, "This all started with a tree."  The protesters, along with a Kurdish Parliament Party Parliament member, were attempting to stop the construction of a shopping mall in Taksim Park.  The polis (police, just in case you couldn't make that translation) were "containing" the protests at first but then it turned to dispersing them using plastic bullets and tear gas.  In Ankara, which is where Suat was and therefore my primary source for this information, protesters started taking scarves for their faces, and then the next night gas masks, and then the next night full suits like firemen.  Protesters then began to construct barricades against the polis and throwing the tear gas bombs back.  The protests are building.  It began in Istanbul and is now in almost all of Turkey's 81 provinces.  The movement is largely on social media since the Turkish media isn't airing coverage of the events here in Turkey. 

Dr. Gökhan gave a fascinating and incredibly relevant lecture this evening.  The topic of the lecture:  The Turkish Political System.  So fitting considering we are here at a time of social unrest and protests against the government.  We are going with Dr. Gökhan this Friday to Parliament, the Embassy, and the Constitutional Law Court (wish you were here, sis!).  I’m about to be real familiar with the Turkish government.  

Now I will attempt to relay the information we learned in a manner that is brief yet informative and will hopefully help the readers of this blog, all three of you, understand what’s going on.  I will do no justice to Dr. Gökhan and the Turkish government as I'm not a writer, scholar, or political aficionado even though I pretend to be all three.  I'm just a girl with a laptop.  Here's how Turkish Parliament works in the broadest summation of all broad summations.  (Deep breath).  There are several political parties in Turkey.  People become members of these parties.  Unlike other European parliament systems, in Turkey you do not pay dues to be a member.  Each party selects a leader.  The party leader controls the party.  If/when the party gets the majority of the vote then that party's leader is Prime Minister and controls Parliament.  The Prime Minister then enacts the laws he wants… in addition to determining the high court justices.  Aside from all of this (pause for breath), as a Parliament member of the party in power, you canNOT vote against the party leader.  Thus creating an "elected dictator."  

Here's how things get sticky (stickier?).  The leaders of these parties do not always rise to power on a shiny cloud of good morals and strong ethics.  Gasp!  In order to become leader, you need the majority of votes of the delegates in your party.  So, for example if there are 1,200 delegates in your party voting for leader, you need 601 votes.  The problem arises when an eager politician seeks to become leader and does it by any means necessary.  Bribery, not always with money such as promising people jobs or contacts, can do the trick.   Such is the case with Prime Minister Erdogan.  In summation of this paragraph, you don’t have to be educated, honest, have integrity, or well-intended ideas to become the leader of your party, which sometimes leads to a seat in the Prime Minister’s chair. 

P.M. Erdogan’s party, The Party of Justice and Development or as they’re known here:  AK Part, is more conservative than they claimed to be when they first won the election.  They promised to preserve secularism and personal freedoms, something Turkey was founded on under first president Ataturk.  But as most politicians do from time to time, Erdogan is no longer keeping the promises made at election time.  The people in the streets want the government to stay out of their business. They want the protection of their lifestyle and freedoms without censorship. Makes sense to me… 

I’ll continue to update as we’re here in Turkey during this time of what could be great change.  I’m also going to keep closer tabs on Syria as I was informed that Turkey could be directly affected by the dissolution of Syria.  Oh yes, the plot thickens.  Turkey and Syria as well as other surrounding countries have Kurdish populations.  Without a country of their own and if they lose Syria, a moment to create a Kurdish country would create some issues in Turkey.   For now I have a front row seat to history in the making. 

 

Hold on Tight or You Might Blow Away

This little adventure I'm part of is a mix of "lectures" and excursions.  The lectures are about Turkish history, culture, language and more.  They are short (yay!) and incredibly fascinating (double yay!).  I love history and since I know virtually nothing about the history of this region-- ehem, can we say US educational system fail-- it's all new information.  We were scheduled to be at the American embassy today but things have changed a bit due to the conflicts of last Friday that continue even as I type this (Istanbul news).  The seminars scheduled at the embassy have been swapped for a meeting room in the hotel and a Texan woman who's lived in Turkey for the past 40 years speaking/ranting about her views of Turkey....  It was kinda comical at first but clearly I've now tuned out.  I'll form my own opinions thank you very much.

It's very windy in Ankara today.  We're told this is uncommon.  I was expecting warm, humid weather which is what I packed for.  Okay, okay... what I over-packed for.  However, my over-packing addiction once again turns positive after three members of our group did not receive their luggage when we landed in Ankara.  My roommate for this leg of the trip, Sarah, is one of these unfortunate fellows but I have enough clothes for both of us to wear!  Truthfully, I have enough clothes for everyone in this hotel to wear.  ANYWAYS, our beautiful (and very western) hotel is right on the largest lake in Ankara.  I'm sitting on the third floor in their gorgeous dinning room with a panorama view of said lake and Ankara's rolling hills, surrounded by the other members of our group.  Outside the window waves roll in the unforeseen June wind as the large, red Turkish flag proudly represents its country.  A warm, serene feeling slowly glides through my insides and I smile to myself.

After the first lecture fiasco concludes, we head out.  First stop is the bank.  Since the exchange rate for Turkish lira is about 2:1 for dollars (not exactly, but really close) we all leave with wads of Turkish cash.  Fun!  For lunch we venture to a restaurant with a lovely view of the city and are treated to what can best be described as Turkish "pizza."  Lahmacun is DELICIOUS!  Gluten allergy be damned, you better believe I took down three "slices." 

Just when I thought my mouth couldn't be happier, dessert was served.  I didn't learn the name of this dessert because I was too busy shoveling it into my face.

The second session of lectures proves to be enlightening and I avidly take notes as our Turkish scholars  address US/Turkish relations past and present, the AK Party's ascension to power, and finally we practice speaking Turkish.  Tomorrow is packed full of jaunts to mausoleums, museums, and a castle.  I'm going to invent another word for happy because it just doesn't do my mood justice. 

Evolution and Escape

Jive Turkey is evolving. This blog is no longer just about a trip. It's about life. It's about my life. And it's about living.

As it turns out, Tommy Tumor (see previous post) has an entourage.  "What are you? A celebrity?" my sister would say, whilst laughing her head off at the amount of accessories I wear-- excuse me for loving scarves, requiring shades because I have light eyes and needing a hat because it's cold, matches my outfit or I didn't brush my hair (typically the latter).  To which I reply yes. She fails to understand how interfering it would be if we had to CONSTANTLY deal with the paparazzi. But I digress. The point I'm making is my cancer is a part of me, be it a warped, mutated part of me, and I'm sure it's just as high maintenance. So Tommy's entourage is posted up in my liver. All 6 of them.

The biopsy confirmed I have cancer. Followed by a meeting with my oncologist who explained aside from pancreas-inhabiting Tommy, there are 6 more tumors in my liver. They remain unnamed as of this posting but I'm definitely open to suggestions. Perhaps they'll adopt Turkish names. The looming question is what to do about all these tumors. Operating is one option which could remove some/most of the tumors but would it leave me enough of a liver? If not then we're looking at a liver transplant (excuse me, WHAT?! This was harder to digest than the cancer diagnosis). And of course, we mustn't forget, chemotherapy.  Oh Life, you crazy, untamed beast. As my mother would say, "What are we going to do with you?" Mom, I believe we're now even for all the times you came to my rescue in every way one can imagine because you got a mention in the blog.

As a direct result, my perspective has changed.  A lot.  Here is what I know: I'm incredibly loved. L-O-V-E-D. The love surrounding me is palpable. I'm encompassed by a dense force that holds me upright and makes my heart swell. Everyone asks what they can do and they always say to call if I need anything. I won't but that's not because I didn't receive your directive. I'm just the suffer in silence type.

How are my diagnosis and the trip connected? I have the unique opportunity to escape.  I get to take a break from life and enjoy an amazing experience. I don't think many people in my shoes get to do the same. They have to face cancer and life. I get to forget about cancer and live. But shouldn't I be home getting better??? No. I should be right where I am, which according to the tv on the back of this chair is 34,999 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. My doc gave me the okay to check out of life for awhile since my tumors are slow growing and all my symptoms are contained. Doctor, you're my favorite person. Watch out for mom though, you didn't say what she wanted to hear. She took it pretty well, the guy is still walking around... as far as I know....

The original first sentence of this paragraph was: Airports suck.  But since I'm pretty sure everyone already knows that I'm changing it to: I have gotten over my fear of flying.  Much better beginning! It's positive and a bit awe inspiring considering 5 years ago I wouldn't even go near a plane.  I'm currently typing the draft of this post on a plane, on an iPad (if I mention Apple products AND have the same cancer as Steve Jobs I might get hooked up!) while time traveling in a pressurized tube hurtling through space. Am I the only one who thinks this is unnatural? Aside from the fact-- emphasis on fact-- that nothing goes right at the airport before flying, flying is a really weird thing.  I guess I've overcome my fear by learning how it works (physics aka things way over my head) and in order to get anywhere cool you HAVE to fly. Crisis averted, flying is now my favorite thing right behind lime sparkling water. Perrier Lime Sparkling Water (another mention- let the freebies pour in!)

An Additional (Unwanted) Passenger

Ah yes, yet another traveler on this little journey of mine.  This one is not quite as exciting as learning Trent is coming.  No, not as exciting as learning I was selected to go on the trip.  Come to think of it, this one is not exciting at all.  I've recently learned (after extensive, uncomfortable, and at times down-right weird testing- see below) I have a tumor in my pancreas.  Yes folks, the latest passenger is Tommy Tumor...  I have zero idea how this name came about, just go with it.

The pancreas is apparently a very vital organ, who knew?  During the first stages of testing when we discovered my pancreas was inflamed, I actually asked a nurse, "Is the pancreas an organ we need?"  The answer is a definitive YES.  Huh.  Tom has successfully shut down my pancreas which requires me to take enzymes before I eat... each and every time.  Fun!  (not)  Tom also lacks the quite, demur temperament I'm so known for (I kid!) so pain meds attempt to keep him subdued.  AND in true terrible tenant fashion, Tom has invited some friends along for the ride.  There is evidence of some "nodules" in my liver.  If these are just friends of Tom or his relatives remains to be seen.  The biopsy I'm having done next week will give us the answers we seek.  I also get the privilege of having 6,000 blood tests, all of which require a new needle poke each time, and a 24-hour urine collection.  Yes, that is exactly what it sounds like.  I'm going to pee into what looks like a mini-gas can for 24 hours.  This is following the poo I had in my freezer for a week.  Funny story:  I was to collect a stool sample and place in the freezer to take to the lab within 24 hours... well true to my blonde nature, I forgot it for approximately a week.  Don't worry, if you come over I won't serve you anything that shared the freezer during that long week in April....

It turns out I have the same tumor as Steve Jobs so at least I'm in good company.  I have yet to develop electronic products that change the world as we know it or make billions of dollars but the night is still young.  With all due respect to Mr. Jobs, I AM going to take credit for being smarter than him in just one category.  While he elected to treat our little friends by natural means, I am electing to have the little nuisance cut right out!  That's right Tommy T., your days are numbered.  How numbered, well that remains to be seen... 

In a grand display of generosity, I'm allowing T.T. to come to Turkey (that's a lot of T's) with me before ending his stay in my body.  I know, I know, I'm too kind.  If I were to have my surgery before the trip, I probably wouldn't be able to take said trip.  So, it's a no-brainer.  TT and LD are off to T and we are going to L it up!

Turkish for Turkeys

I have to admit that getting up early is not my ideal Saturday morning routine, but this week's meeting proved to be a stint in hilarity.  While attempting to "teach" us some Turkish, Dr. Hazan unleashed some of his wild and crazy antics.  I'm more thrilled than ever to be going on this trip.  This group of travelers is eclectic and spirited.

Here's the Turkish I learned and can use:

merhaba

It means hello.  I got nothing else.  So I will be running around Turkey in June saying hello! to everyone and smiling.  Smiles are universal... thank Allah.

A second post? But we haven't even left yet...

I'm changed.  And I like it.

While discussing Islam, the primary religion practiced in Turkey, the topic of Muslim women's dress came up.  Many Muslim women choose to wear scarves or other types of coverings.  First enlightenment:  there are many types of headscarves and dress worn by Muslim women.  The full veil and all black dress of the burka usually comes to mind when one thinks of Muslim covering because of the press it's received as of late.  The predominant scarf in Turkey is called hijab.  Hijab covers the hair and ears.  Other types of scarves/dress worn by Muslim women include chador, niqab, and the contentious burka (muslim headscarves).  Second realization: for most women, its a personal choice to wear hijab or not.  I learned that women do not feel oppressed by wearing hijab.  In fact, it empowers them.  This is all part of an important Islam aspect of modesty in both women AND men.  Something American society is seriously lacking.  I've always held the assumption women were MADE to wear hijab but this is not true.  (Revelation!)

My female, American mind could not fathom covering my hair!  Hair is a symbol of beauty in our society and has been engrained into my brain since I was 4 years old playing with my Barbies.  We are so judged and labeled by our appearance in Western society.   Mystery is completely absent from the images girls and women see everyday in American "culture."  I really pondered the thought of what wearing hijab would do for one's sense of self. 

In today's Turkey, hijab is coming back.  While leader of the newly labeled Turkey (1922), Ataturk told women to abandon the hijab and men to wear Western fedoras.  Hijab can be found in many colors and patterns. Or in black or plain.  It's all based on your personal preference.  The hijab I've encountered during the small amount of research I've had time to do is all very beautiful and there is a great variety.  

I learned something new and so can you.  So could the world.  I think Islam is probably the most misunderstood thing in America.  I'm an open-minded, educated human living in a quasi-liberal section of the US and I still had many of my preconceived notions shredded by 30 mins of discussion.  One tiny piece of information is all it takes.  One.